Heather: March Makes

Once again I've surprised myself with just how much sewing I managed to squeeze in this month! We even managed a little holiday, and a trip to the NEC Sewing for Pleasure show, so the stash has had a pretty healthy top up, and I'll share my fabric haul with you later on.

 

If you can cast your mind back as far as the first of March (it feels like a really long month!) you'll remember we had a bit of a cold snap, which meant that this fantastic fleece backed sweatshirting, from Fabric Corner at Lincoln's Craftea Sewing Bee shop, quickly became my third Sew Over It Heather Dress. This is pretty much the cosiest thing I've ever owned, and whilst I had a wide-eyed moment at the £16.50/m price tag, I'd say this little jumper has been worth every penny. 

My next make for the month was a little treat for my Birthday. Mr A had promised a surprise of some sort for which I would need to "dress up", so I set about making good use of some aztec print sparkle jersey which I purchased with my gift-voucher winnings from Adam Ross Fabrics back in December. I had seen the cold shoulder look on the high street and though I'm not normally a slave to fashion, I quite fancied recreating the look in my own style. Rather than cutting away at the shoulder and making a very one season dress, I decided to use a pattern with a raglan sleeve seam, which I could then split open to create the look (and close up again when it goes out of fashion in six months time). McCalls 6460 totally does the job for this, but I wanted a bit more detail across the front to stop it looking like an oversized sparkly t-shirt. I have made Butterick 6166 several times and really like the swag detail across the front, so I pinched this pattern piece and added it to my design! 

I really love this dress, although I was a bit over cautious with the sizing after the last time I made it (poor tiny dress relegated to the remake pile) and I could afford to lose at least 2 sizes across the back on this version. But it was really fun to wear on a rare night out and totally appropriate for the Birthday surprise... a performance from Cirque du Soleil!

After a fab Birthday weekend we took a little City Break over to Copenhagen and I came across The Last Stitch's blog about her favourite stores in the city. Lo and behold, one of the shops was only a few minutes walk from where we were staying and we happened to walk past it (total coincidence...) on our way to a few touristy sites. Skipper and Stoffer is one of the oldest fabric shops in Copenhagen, having operated from the premises for more than 300 years. The shop keeper was delighted to show us his treasure trove of ex-designer fabrics, mostly Italian imports labelled with such brands as "Bottega Veneta" and "Paul Smith". The prices were (significantly) higher than I would normally pay, but I totally fell in love with a piece of surface printed slub silk that somehow followed me out of the shop...

It's destined for something really stunning, but I'm not sure what yet!

On returning from my travels it was straight back to NEC Birmingham for the annual Sewing for Pleasure show. This is one of my favourite shows because a lot of the craft and hobby activity (cross stitch etc) is separated out into the Hobbycraft section, unlike at the Knitting & Stitching shows, so there's more room for gorgeous fabric. It's also great to see some of the designer work on display, although admittedly we didn't stop for long as we were on a bit of a fabric shopping mission. The stash got a good top up from favourite stalls The Shuttle, Montreux Fabrics, Rosenberg and Lilli fabrics.

 

I managed to squeeze in one last wintery make before the Spring really sprung in this gorgeous tweed from Fabric Corner. This is a Colette Patterns Selene Skirt. It has fabulous green satin lining!

I spent a bit of time this month destashing a few fabrics. There were a fair few pieces in my stash that I just didn't know what to do with, or that i had bought for an occasion that has passed and have no idea when I'll next get the opportunity to use it. I'll be honest, there were a couple of bits that made me wonder why I had bought them in the first place! In the enthusiasm of destashing I also picked out a couple of pieces from my handmade wardrobe that I haven't worn for a while, or had fit issues, and did some remaking. You can read my blog about transforming my blue dress here. 

My final make for the month was so much fun. A very dear friend gave me a gift voucher for my Birthday, which I put to good use on a trio of fabrics from, you guessed it, Fabric Corner!

I spent a sunny Saturday afternoon making up this fabulous pineapple-print dress from New Look 6070, a Project Runway pattern (thank you Netflix for the recent upload!) which is also my Spring make for the Dressmaking Blogger Challenge. 

The April challenge over on the Dressmaking Blogging Network is "April Showers".

It's definitely the weather for a spring jacket here in the UK, so we want to see your coats, jackets, waterproofs or anything that helps to bust the spring weather! 

As usual it's a just for fun challenge. Share your pics using #dressmakingbloggerchallenge

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Until next time, happy sewing!

Heather: January Sewing Roundup

January has been a busy month busting the winter blues at the sewing machine! The recent cold snap has motivated me to fill some gaps in my wardrobe, and I've also been trying to be a bit more adventurous with the patterns I choose, rather than just sticking with the same classic styles. 

 

Here are some of my favourite makes this month:

Winter Woollies

Made from some gorgeous sparkly crochet knit gifted by Mum at Christmas, I made this up into a matching hat, scarf and jumper, and even made a nude coloured jersey cami to go underneath. The pattern is a Burda jumper which is almost identical to the popular Linden sweatshirt that everyone seemed to be making over Christmas! 

 

 

Cosy Nightshirt

Over on the Dressmaking Blogger Network we've set a little "just for fun" challenge for January which was to make something cosy. 

 

I decided to make a cosy night shirt and you can read the full blog post here.

 

Cleo

The first of my "not my normal style" makes this month was my Tilly and the Buttons Cleo pinafore, which came about as a result of trying to find something to make with a piece of old corduroy. 

 

The keen eyed amongst you will see that this is not a corduroy dress, and you can read the full Cleo story here.

Nancy Dress

Nancy is the latest offering from Sew Over It and one that I really wouldn't have picked any other day of the week. Perhaps it was just the novelty of making something so totally different that appealed to me! 

 

Read all about Nancy here.

Sewing Scuba

My final make to share with you this month is a fab floral spring dress made from stretchy scuba from SewEssential. This was a bit of a tricky make and you can read all about how I tackled the challenge here.

 

Next month's challenge

Now is as good a time as any to let you know about the February Dressmaking Blogger Challenge which is...

"Sewn with Love"

 

We want to see your gifts for others, or something for yourself that's a real treat. 

Share your makes online using #dressmakingbloggerchallenge 

Happy Sewing everyone! See you next month. If you're getting withdrawal symptoms you can find me online at 

Dresstoration Blog

Instagram

Dressmaking Blogger Network

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Links

Fabric Corner and Craftea Sewing Bee Shop

Tilly and the Buttons Cleo Dress

Sew Over It Nancy Dress

Sew Essential

Heather: Speedy makes and December sew far

Once again it's been a month since I shared my makes with you (really, where has 2016 gone?), but it's been a really productive month at the sewing machine, so I thought I'd give you a bumper roundup of some of my recent makes. Each of these projects were "speedy sews", made in a single evening, or in some cases, just a few hours! Hopefully you'll feel inspired. 

 

Velvet Burnout Party Dress

 

First up is Threadcount 1613 made up in a sparkle velvet burnout fabric, made up in around 4 hours. I made quite a few adjustments to this pattern, particularly on the back panels and shoulders, both of which were shortened and tweaked by about an inch to get a more precise fit in the bodice. The fabric itself is quite firm- it has stretch but behaves more like a stretch denim than a jersey- but this allowed for a really close fit without compromising my ability to breathe! 

I'm not normally a fan of a peplum, always believing them to make my bum look big, but I pinned this one together and was pleasantly surprised with the fit and styling, so it made the final cut!

 

Floral Heather Dress

 

Next up, a version of the Heather Dress by Sew Over It (I had to!). Again, a one-evening make as I had already made a version in red sweater knit for practice and I was able to make the entire garment on the overlocker. The fabric is a heavy weight jersey with a low % stretch. The slightly lower than required stretch meant that I needed to allow a little more room over the bust and across the arms than the previous version. I also made two simple alterations to this pattern, adding a cuff to the sleeves (cut sleeves shorter, sew a rectangle of fabric, short edges together, fold lengthways, attach to sleeve!) and a slightly deeper neck band for a roll neck effect. This dress is so comfortable that I want one in every colour!

 

 

 

Stripy Jumper Dress

 

My next speedy make was a self drafted jumper dress made after work on a Friday evening (started at 4.30) and worn out to dinner the very same night (at 6.30!). The pattern started life as a simple shift dress from Burda, to which I added a grown on sleeve, to make, essentially, a giant t-shirt! I've made this pattern up before in black and white ponte and it's a real wardrobe staple for warmer days in the office, so when I saw the pink and navy stripe I knew exactly what I wanted to make. On this version I lengthened the sleeve to the elbow and then added a panel for the lower sleeve. I also added a wide neckband for an extra level of coziness! 

  

Dashwood Annabelle 

 

And last, but by no means least, we have Annabelle, the absolutely gorgeous new floral dress I whipped up last weekend to wear out for lunch with my Nanna. The pattern was free with December's Love Sewing Magazine and the design was quite straightforward. The new Paper Meadow range by Dashwood has some beautiful coordinating fabrics and I knew straight away I wanted to use these together. I also picked up some orange cotton lawn to use as the lining and set to work! As usual I shortened the back length by about an inch at the lower back, and also at the shoulder by 1/4". I did also adjust the front bodice length slightly at the neckline, deepening the curve by about 1/2". I started sewing after Saturday night's Strictly and was at the restaurant by Midday on Sunday! 

 

 

 

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All of the fabrics used were sourced from Fabric Corner at the Craftea Sewing Bee Shop, 22-24 Melville St, Lincoln. Call in for your next speedy sewing project!

Heather: His n hers on holiday

 

About a month ago, shortly after booking our late summer holidays, Mr returned from the high street bereft at the lack of summer attire available in early September, and asked me to have a go at making him some shorts. He didn't want anything fancy, but these shorts ideally needed to have have angled front pockets, two proper back pockets (not the welt kind) belt loops, a fly fastening and be made from ticking, ideally with a blue stripe, and red contrast top stitching... Did I mention this was three weeks before the holiday?!.

I'm not sure, then, if it was shock, or a generous helping of wine that found me agreeing to spend a Friday evening, originally designated for my own holiday makes, searching for a suitable pattern for these perfect holiday shorts. 

In the end my searching was actually relatively painless once I came across the range of menswear by Thread Theory , in particular the Jedediah 'Pants' (Trousers!). A quick hashtag search online (good old Instagram) suggested that the pattern generally yielded good results, wouldn't be too difficult to make and there was also a handy video sew along for the tricky bits. I downloaded the PDF and instructions (very handy given the limited time available) and, as an additional bonus, I was able to lay my hands on some really smart blue and white heavy cotton ticking at local favourite Fabric Corner (I believe they have several colour ways available). 

So it turns out that menswear isn't all that different to womenswear (I know, who knew?!). There were a couple of techniques in the make that I hadn't handled before, namely flat felled seams and a concealed fly, but the instructions were clear, and I was able to resort to that video tutorial for clarity on the fly, meaning I was able to complete this part of the make inside 15 minutes!

 

 

 

In the end it took 2 evenings to fully complete this make (about 8 hours) but it was totally worth it for that happy-faced husband at the end!

 

 

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The day before the holiday, having finally made a start on the packing, I realised that I probably needed some shorts too...

Really restricted on time at this point (less than 48 hours to go), with a wedding outfit still to alter and the rest of the packing to finish, I went straight to the to Burda Style website find a suitable PDF pattern to download. I've made a fair few Burda pieces in the past and knew I wouldn't need to make too many fit alterations to one of their basic patterns. I found a really simple pattern without any fancy details and rooted out some floral cotton from my stash (purchased last summer from Fabric Corner) which I knew I wouldn't miss too much if everything went awry.

I opted for a size 10 waist into a 14 hip, knowing that I'd be able to alter later, and also extended the back waist height by an inch having used my flexi ruler to check just how big my bum is (so glad I know in cm now... 😉 ). I also added a couple of inches to the length as I wasn't ready to show quite that much leg!

The construction of these shorts was much, much simpler than the previous pair. The only fit alteration I made was to pull in the centre back seam by about half an inch for a better fit at the waist. In seam front pockets and no back pockets meant that the rest of the garment stitched up quickly (working against the clock here!) I then proceeded to break 3, yes 3 needles whilst trying to put the zipper in- "more haste, less speed", I can hear my mother saying- and abandoned the sewing for the evening. I set an early alarm to finish the shorts, which as expected with fresh eyes, were finished, pressed and in the suitcase inside about 20 minutes. 

 

So there we go. His and hers handmade shorts on holiday. My tip for you all? Start planning your holiday wardrobe now...

 

Heather: Patti floral dress

Back in October 2015 I picked up a copy of the Burda Style Special magazine. (For those of you who have never heard of it, it's a sewing magazine containing 64 free 'trace-it-yourself' patterns each month.) The October special had a 60s theme and was where I first spied the gorgeous Patti empire line dress.

Patti Dress from www.burdastyle.com

With a contrast collar and cuffs this dress is a vintage-lover's dream, and since then I've made it in several colours and styles. (Sorry about the picture quality!)

Navy polyester with contrast in lighter blue viscose.

Stripe knitted fabric with collar and cuffs made from leftover pieces of jumper!

I even made a version for my Mum from this orange floral cotton mix fabric with corduroy collars and cuffs.

But by far the pièce de résistance is this version in black floral, 100% viscose from Fabric Corner. As soon as I saw the fabric I knew it would make a perfect 'Patti'. I decided against contrast collars and cuffs on this one. Despite finding a great spot-contrast in my stash I decided the matching collar was more suitable for this one. (Do you think I made the right decision?)

Instead the spot contrast is on the inside, for a fun detail. I added some vintage style buttons, picked up at a sewing show in Harrogate last year, for a true vintage feel.

I am totally thrilled with the results on this dress. It's goes perfectly with my peach shoe boots and I've worn it twice in a week!

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All fabrics featured in this post were sourced at Fabric Corner Lincoln, based in Lincoln's historic Central Market and at 22-24 Melville Street Lincoln.

Happy Sewing!

Heather: Reversible Floral Skirt

At a recent visit to the Sewing and Craft shows at the NEC I spotted this beautiful viscose mix floral fabric from Montreux Fabrics.

I've never seen the stall there before, but it was piled high with gorgeous rolls, and even better, they had boxes and boxes of remnants and roll ends to root through. Now, I'm a sucker for a remnant. The challenge presented of having just too little fabric and having to cut creatively, or add panels, really makes me think about what I'm making. This piece was just 80x150cm so just enough for a very simple shift dress or a nice skirt. 

I pulled the fabric out of my stash the other day and, whilst laying it out on the table, realised that the fabric was fully reversible! I hadn't even noticed in the excitement of buying. 

I really wanted to make the most of both sides of the beautiful fabric, so I decided to attempt a fully reversible skirt. I googled for a simple pattern and found this really easy tutorial with a free printable pattern. Unfortunately I didn't have enough fabric to make the skirt as two layers so I was going to need to be creative!

The pattern calls for the skirt to be cut on the straight grain, but there was not enough fabric for this so I removed the centre back seam and cut both front and back pieces on the bias.

It wanted to ensure the skirt was fully reversible so I stitched the panels together with French seams and then top-stitched them flat to ensure the skirt could be worn both ways. 

I cut the front wrap panels into a curve at the edges, and turned up the hem 1cm all the way round, turning the hem under again to create a 0.5cm hem. On the "blue" side of the garment I pinned some black rikrak over the turned hem and top stitched through all the layers close to the edge to finish the hem. 

I used black satin bias binding for the waist and attached two pretty buttons from my stash to finish off. The result is a lovely flippy hem skirt that I can wear right through to summer!