Saturday, 5 March 2016

Heather: Pink Lace Elisalex Party Dress

I first spotted the By Hand London Elisalex dress pattern around 6 months ago, on a hunt for a full skirted pattern. BHL are an independent pattern company producing fun and feminine designs that definitely appeal to my style. When I spotted the brand listed in White Tree Fabrics extensive independent pattern selection, I knew that this would make a great first project as part of the White Tree blogging family. 

Elisalex Dress in Long Sleeve option. Image from www.byhandlondon.com

My fabric of choice was a lovely pink Small Flower Lace which I planned to make in a long sleeved option, teamed up with a darker pink lining to show off the lace detail.


My first task was to copy out the paper pattern onto dot and cross paper. I wouldn't usually bother, but the instructions specifically recommended it, so I took this as an opportunity to make some minor modifications to the fit using my bodice block. Having made a toile I brought the neckline up by about 2cm at the front and took 2 cm out of the centre back seam to improve the fit. At a slightly bottom heavy (not complaining!) 5'3", I also elected to shorten the skirt length by around 6 inches to finish just below the knee (and stop me looking like a pink pumpkin).

My next challenge was my choice of fabric. I had intended to use the dark pink satin (pictured above) to line the lace, but there were two problems. The first was that the lace laid only over satin was far too see-through to make a wearable garment. I would need to use two layers of satin throughout to prevent this. The second was that the darker pink satin didn't really have the effect I wanted, instead looking more like a mismatch than a carefully chosen style idea, and so I opted to use a slightly lighter pink satin from my stash. I'll use the darker pink satin in my next project, which I'm already eyeing up! (A word to the wise, White Tree Fabrics offer a completely free sampling service, so you can avoid making the same mistake.)

Pattern and fabric ready to go, I started cutting out.


Constructing the garment was fairly straightforward. The pattern is clear and uses standard markings. The instructions come in a little handbook, rather than a big fold out pattern sheet, and are clear and easy to follow. As I was using an extra layer to interline my lace I machine tacked around each piece to hold the layers together and then joined them using french seams so that they were less visible through the lace. I inserted a semi-transparent invisible zip (see second image above) into the centre back. This type of zip is excellent if you're using semi transparent fabrics and I love the stylish metal pull. 

Here is the finished garment. As you will see I left the sleeves unlined and I've teamed it with some new jewellery, which all together will be making an appearance at my Birthday party next weekend.




What do you think?

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 If you fancy your own sewing challenge, here's a little something for you.
20% off and free P&P when you order from www.whitetreefabrics.com
Just enter the code SIY challenge

Happy Sewing!





Sunday, 21 February 2016

Heather: Custom Fit Blouse

Call me old-fashioned, but I do love a good smart suit and blouse for work. During one of my recent frequent visits to Fabric Corner I was drawn to this lovely Liberty-style cotton lawn which had just arrived in store.

Buoyed up from my successes in the Pattern Cutting class last month, I decided to attempt to use my new pattern cutting skills to make this lovely vintage print into a staple item for the wardrobe.

I started by adapting my basic bodice block into a four panelled blouse, adding a stand collar and narrowing the sleeves to suit the vintage styling of the garment.


The print in this fabric is very bold, so it was important to match the pattern as much as possible. I'm rather pleased with the results over the button stand! The finished garment not only has an exceptional fit, but coordinates wonderfully with a pink linen-mix skirt that I whipped up from my stash. Jacket coming soon!


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This project was sponsored by Fabric Corner and Love Handmade. You can find details of pattern cutting classes and a find a range of cotton lawns online or by calling in to the shop at 22-24 Melville Street, Lincoln.


Monday, 8 February 2016

Heather: Let's start at the very beginning...

Unlike my fellow bloggers, I'm what you could call a 'novice' sewer. Yes, I did learn to sew as a child, and made further progress at school (you can read my bio here) but I was never trained to really look at the principles of dressmaking and how to go about creating garments that would really fit. When Bridie asked me to take up the Sew It Challenge it seemed like a great opportunity not only to do something I love, but to gain some skills and learn from the fabulously talented ladies I'm writing alongside. 

And sew (sorry, I'll do that a lot) I booked a place on a Pattern Cutting course, hosted by the lovely Bridie herself, at local sewing shop and haberdashery "Fabric Corner and Love Handmade" (you might also recognise them as a sponsor for this blog!)

The workshop starts with finding and taking all the right measurements for various parts of the torso and arms, with some assistance from other course-goers. Then comes the part when you're glad of the constant stream of coffee provided throughout the course from the adjoining Craftea Cafe!

Armed with ruler, pencil and some thorough instructions, our small group created pattern master drawings, using our own measurements. The day included making up a toile of the new pattern, learning to move and change darts, and creating a pattern block from card to use as a draft for future pattern making. 


But why stop there? Keen to add tools to my pattern making toolkit, I enrolled on a second course, Pattern Cutting Part 2, which shows you how to draft the sleeve block and use the pattern master to create a garment from scratch. 


And sew (I told you so!) I'm prepared to start my first challenge item. Check back here soon to see how I get on!

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Bridie's range of full day pattern cutting classes run on Thursdays and Saturdays throughout the year and can be found and booked easily online at www.sewing-bee.co.uk. All classes include materials (paper, pens etc) and an Afternoon Tea.  


Monday, 2 November 2015

Bridie: Vintage Inspired Dress


This project was another Sew It Yourself Meet Up Mini Challenge. This Challenge was to make a vintage inspired outfit, we could either use a vintage pattern, vintage fabric or both. So a lot of flexibility with this one!
To start with I wasn't sure what I was going to make! I had quiet a few vintage patterns but most were 80s ones I'd inherited which arn't really my style or the ones that were my style would have been far too small, but after a rummage through my collection I came across this little gem I'd forgotton I had! It was a bit of a star find at a vintage fair only £2, complete and in my size woo! 
So I had the pattern now I just had to find some fabric that would work well with it. 
I took a trip to Fabric Corner, where I found this lovely chevron fabric, I think the bold pattern and colours gives this garment more of a 60s feel rather then 70s which is the era the pattern was from. I decided not to add the sleeves as it was summer and thourght I'd get more wear out of it!
I decided to use a black cotton fabric for the yoke, I felt it needed a bit of contrast from the pattern fabric. I think they work well together! I added white top stitch around the collar and down the seams.

I decided to use red bias binding around the armholes and hem, partly because I hate hemming, partly to save me time on making facings for the armholes but mainly because I think it looks fab!
I managed to pattern match the chevrons quiet well down the front and back seams but struggled to get the side seams perfect! Practice makes purpose I guess, one day I will defeat the mighty chevron! Any tips though would be greatly appreciated though!!!
I am however very please with how neat all my seams are and these were the days before the lovely Ginger came along (my overlocker).
I love how this dress looks on, it looks prefer to wear it with a belt but looks good without to!
Plus whats more I actually won the SIY Meet Up Mini Challenge woo. 

I hope you enjoyed this post!

Happy Sewing!

Tuesday, 15 September 2015

Bridie: Shift Dress


For one of the first Sew It Yourself Meet Ups I set a mini challenge to make a shift dress. I wanted to keep things simple for people who were just starting to sew and thought it was a flattering silhouette for most people.

I decided to push myself a bit and as I'm working towards creating my own range of patterns I thought drafting my own shift dress pattern and basically using it was a wearable toile, a starting point for a shift dress pattern I will be producing.

I'm happy with the style and look of the dress but it defiantly needs some tweeking.  
I love my combination of fabrics, you can't really see in the pic below but the fabric I used for the collar has a very subtle floral design, it's very pretty. I also sandwiched binding between the collar pieces the way you would pipping, I actually think it would of been better if I'd used pipping. It wouldn't of gone as wonky (technical term). I won't lie I rushed the zip, I've gotten a lot better at concealed zips since I made this dress, its true what they say practice does make perfect (well depending on how tired I am!)  

As usual I added binding to the hemline. I love this technique it adds an extra bit of colour and the hem doesn't warp the way a rolled hem can do, it's quicker to! 

I think next time I make this pattern I'll add darts in the back to give it a nicer shape. I'd also make it longer I miss judged how much fabric I would need thinking a meter would be enough (silly mistake). Needless to say a few inches were sacrificed from the length because I loved the fabric so much.
Still looks cute though!

The fabric is from Fabric Corner

I hope you enjoyed this post!

Happy Sewing X

Friday, 10 July 2015

Bridie: The Delphine Skirt


This is a project I finished quiet a while ago and have only just gotten round to blogging about it. I think I need to start sewing project and blogging filing system! What I really need is Laura to come round and organise me like when we were back at uni. Unfortunately I don't think that's going to happen! 

One of the early Sew It Yourself Meet Ups mini challenges was to make an A line skirt, I thought this would be easy enough for those new to sewing and the more advanced sewers could go crazy with any little extra they liked. 

I decided to use to use Tilly Walnes book Love At First Stitch. I had gotten a copy for my birthday and was looking for any excuse to use it! The front cover just screamed "PERFECT" (in my head I'm singing this) for this mini challenge! 
    

I found the most beautiful Houndstooth fabric in a lovely mustard yellow almost gold with a slight sheen. It was from Fabric Corner, I believe it was a vintage piece so a limit supply and may have sold out but might be worth getting in touch with them if you're interested in it or something similar. They are really lovely and will go out of their way to help you, I'm so lucky they're on my door step. They are also moving to a much bigger shop very soon which means more fabric (she dances with excitement!). I think my bank balance maybe in trouble! That and my waistline as there will be a cafe along side to! Fabric and cake is a dangerous combo! 


Love At First Stitch is a lovely is a lovely book to work it has clear step by step instructions with amazing pictures alongside . I also really liked the add on techniques, which is great for beginners who want to start out simple and the more advanced can add all the extra finishing touches they like! My only slight issue was that next time I might make a size smaller as the measurements add quiet a lot of ease for me this is however great when you're tummy is a little rounder then usual (we all have those days) and it hides it so well!



I decided to add belt loops and inserted pockets into the side seams, I wanted to push myself for the challenge. Secretly I wanted to win (sadly I didn't).


The fabric was a delight to work with! It did everything I wanted it to, I was a little worried it might be a little thick for the belt loops but it really wasn't!


I hadn't done it on purpose but I'm pretty impressed with my pattern matching! I do love a happy accident!


For the pocket lining I used a beautiful cotton lawn again from Fabric Corner, it looked like it could of been Liberty but half the price! Which is never a bad thing!

Oh I forgot that I also made a belt out of the pocket lining material which had a very cute bow on it. It is also in Love At First Stitch and really finished off the outfit! Sadly I completely forgot to photograph it, sorry!


I absolutely love this skirt it goes with so many things which I didn't really expect as I don't usually wear yellow. But it goes with things I'd buried in my draws because I had no idea what to wear it with (pre challenge days). I've worn it so much I'm even contemplating making a copy to give this one a rest!

Hope you've enjoyed this post! 
Hot tip White Tree Fabrics stock Tilly and the Buttons patterns and you can use our code
 SIY Challenge
for 20%off and free P&P

Happy Sewing x


Sunday, 14 June 2015

Bridie: It's a Sewing Mashup


So it's been a while since I've taken the time to sit down and blog about my makes which I apologies for, my only excuse is that finding enough time to sew is hard enough with a small child let alone blog about it , plus there have been lots of exciting things going on. For those who follow our Facebook page you'll already know but if you don't I've started teaching a few sewing classes at Rock Paper Scissors which has taken a lot of my free time to plan my lessons, but now that they are going well I have more time to sort through the many back dated blog posts I have planned (I've still been sewing honest!). 

This is a project I did a few months ago, I set it as a mini challenge for the SIY Meet Up, I called it a charity shop mash up, but basically we had £5 to buy two items of clothing which we would take apart, cut into and pretty much destroy in order to mash them up to created a completely new outfit. 

These were the two items I picked, a very ugly pleated skirt which was a size 20 (that's quiet a lot of fabric to play with) and a pretty sheer blouse that was massive on me!  


 I started by pinning down the pleats (so many pleats) this took quiet a while and a few pricked fingers but it needed doing as I wanted to keep the pleats in my dress.

I then cut just above pins, I'd already worked out the length I wanted it to be and didn't want to touch the hemline, I wouldn't have a clue how to re hem it if I'd cut into it from the bottom.


For the blouse section of my dress I took it in at the sides and gathered it around the waist line.



I then pinned the skirt to the blouse after taking off any excess fabric from the skirt. I had lined up the buttons on the skirt and the blouse so that I could get into it like you would a shirt dress.   


 I sewed them together and tidied up any edges (seriously wish I'd had a over locker for this part sadly I do no) and that's it. I teamed it up with a big gold belt which I think goes really well with it, plus has the added bounce of hiding any little mistakes. 

This mini challenge was a lot of fun and shows that you don't have to spend a fortune on fabric. It could be an old bed sheet, curtains or a huge ugly shirt you found at a charity shop, if you love the fabric that's all that matters and no one will know where you got if from when you've finished! They'll just be impressed you made it yourself!
   

Happy Sewing x

PS sorry for the grainy pics I think these were taken on my old phone.